I’ve moved around a lot in my life. After a couple of years in a new place learning the basics, I get the urge to explore around, to fill in what seem like blank spaces lacking history, lacking interest. That’s what I’m up to in Texas right now. It’s like a jigsaw puzzle. You go off to a place and find lots of pieces: literature from the Chamber of Commerce, historic markers (lots and lots of these in Texas), churches, restaurants, banks and houses, chance conversations with people, but they don’t add up to a picture or a story. That’s the trick. To put the pieces together to make a story.
This kind of exploration nicely fits with my project of understanding appropriation, whether cultural or of land, or the rejection of other people’s food. I grew up on land that had been settled for at least four thousand years, probably longer. Those thousands of years had not been without incident, far from it. The overwhelming sense I had as a child, though, was that history weighed heavily, that it was hard to see what I could do that had not been done many, many times before.
Texas is the opposite. Although the area around the two small towns of San Saba and Lampasas that I went to a couple of weeks ago had long been places of passage or of habitation for Native Americans, the Spanish had scarcely got that far north, and the Europeans did not arrive in any numbers until the 1870s. Then they were really remote. The hundred miles north from Austin that took me just a couple of hours and that with stops along the way took 12 whole days in an ox cart in the 1870s and 80s.
Somehow, though, settlers arrived, from other American states such as Alabama, and from Europe, presumably via the port of Galveston 300 miles away down on the coast. What they had to do was to make their history from scratch.
The land they found was not easy. Little of this was on the rich black earth that forms a north-south band through central Texas. It was on limestone or hard metamorphic rock, so the soil was thin. Much of it was covered with scrubby juniper trees. Most of the rivers dried up in the summer unless there was a gully washer when the soil was stripped off and flash floods tore down trees and ruined such tracks as there were.
This was rough hard country and people did what they could to survive. Fighting and raiding went on between Indians and settlers, between big settlers and small farmers, as well as lynchings of those who were not thought to belong there.
Now the towns, particularly San Saba, which proclaims itself Pecan Capital of the World, showing signs of the gentrification that is going on in many small Texas towns. That’s another story though.
So what a day trip it was. I put together these pictures to remind me of it, as it passed from amusing to surprising, from searing to heart warming with each turn in the road. Of course, if you are Texan you will just smile at my naivety.
Edit. A lovely surprise this morning when I woke to find three comments from the artists who painted the murals in Lampasas. Not only do I appreciate their generosity in writing but I’m impressed by the contribution they are making to their town. Here’s the web site for Vision Lampasas.
Actually, in many of the small towns I visit I’m running into volunteers staffing the museums, organizing events, running libraries etc., thus continuing the more than century-long efforts to make these towns richly interesting places to live.
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The area of Texas that I was exploring
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Driving through the country in the golden early morning light.
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A small Methodist church just south of Lampasas, no date, but around the time of settlement I think and a sign that this is Anglo, not German, settlement.
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Comanches, Cherokees and several other Indian groups were in the area. Every small town museum has simple grindstones and an array of flint tools.
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One way for ranches to survive is to offer hunting of all kinds of animals.Kifaru exotic animal and bird auction house is one place to acquire them.
https://www.texasobserver.org/tracking-the-exotic-animal-trade-in-lampasas/
http://blogs.reuters.com/great-debate/2015/08/25/want-to-hunt-exotic-african-animals-just-go-to-texas/.
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Ranch gates often proclaim something about the owner and what they use the ranch for. This one advertises its offerings with metal cutouts of local and exotic animals on the gate.
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No Texas town in ranch country is without at least one taxidermist.
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A flying mountain lion chasing a buck and a doe advertises this taxidermist in San Saba.
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Stores specialize in metal objects and pottery suitable for the Texas homestead. The cast aluminum longhorns at this store in Lampasas are made in Mexico and sell for about $2000. There are also deer, rattlers, horses, you name it.
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A bigger than life size metal mariachi and a small metal dog adorn this ranch gate.
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‘Portrait of the past’ mural on Lampasas town square: Hereford cattle, windmill, angora goats, corn, pickup truck, Gillen’s cotton gin, corn, cowboy and collie, sheep, mules, tractor.
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Vision of the future on the other side of Lampasas town square. The huge Japanese firm Ajinimoto bought Windsor frozen foods in 2014. They make José Olé frozen taquitos.
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Open range. Can’t get closer to the old West than that. The cattle were Aberdeen Angus, though, not Longhorns.
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Lampasas was where the Southern Farmer’s Alliance got a shaky start around 1875. Part secret society, part co-op, part vigilante group of smaller landowners, the members rounded up strays and tackled horse thieves, trying to protect themselves from large cattle operators and land speculators. As prices for agricultural goods fell in the 1870s and 1880s, these and similar alliances in other parts of the US morphed into the Populist Party which in the early 1890s protested that both Democrats and Republicans represented bankers and businesses, ignoring farmers.
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On 28th of April of this year, the Lampasas Dispatch Record reported that the historical marker at the foundation site of the Farmers’ Alliance had been defaced. Not sure how to interpret this.
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San Saba resident Jack Owen invented a chute that could be hauled behind a car, then used to load livestock onto trains or lorries, a big help to ranchers and sheep and goat herders.
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“Cedar” cutting camp between Lampasas and San Saba at the turn of the twentieth century. 2 or 300 people, including children, might live in such a camp. The problem was getting the logs out. A special rail line was constructed in this case. The so-called cedar is actually a juniper that grows to about twenty feet tall. It flourishes on the limestone of central Texas. Cedar choppers still operate. I passed Myers Cedar Yard on my trip. http://kdhnews.com/living/home_and_garden/myers-cedar-yard-flourishes-in-lampasas/article_c943b114-0c69-11e3-a8a6-001a4bcf6878.html
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The Colorado River (the Texas one, not the Grand Canyon one) runs through this area, on down to Austin and out to the Gulf. There a blue heron on that dead tree trunk and two deer down on the right.
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San Saba town square baking in the 100 degree afternoon heat. Pepperbelly’s, the Tex-Mex restaurant where I had lunch is on the far right.
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J. McConnell and Sons, founded in 1875, cash buyers of wool, mohair, cotton, and pecans (and livestock). McConnell was born in Alabama in 1846, served in the Confederate cavalry, was a trail rider on the cattle drives north, then founded a dry goods and grocery business, and became the biggest buyer of mohair and pecans in the area. He died in 1932.https://www.findagrave.com/cgi-bin/fg.cgi?page=gr&GRid=121678910
Texas may be associated with cattle, but sheep and goats for wool, not, meat have been very important too.
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William Gibbons and his partner arrived in San Saba in 1875. They had left Ireland, sailed to Mexico, bought 1000 merino sheep, sailed with them to the Port of Galveston (near Houston), walked them (presumably) the 300 miles to San Saba and set up a ranch. By the time Gibbons died in 1932, he was the largest landowner in the region. There is a lot to be found out about this story, don’t you think?
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Pecan trees, which are quite beautiful, grow along the rivers in central Texas and down into Mexico. They are the region’s great contribution to the world’s food plants. This glorious park in San Saba was donated by Edward Risien who, by finding ways to graft pecans, produced commercially valuable trees.
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Pecans on the tree in their husk. They fall in October and November. Another story to be told about Edward Risien, born in Kent, England, though his name is not English, who arrived in San Saba, worked as a cabinet maker, and studied ways of improving pecan propagation. His descendants still grow pecans.
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The tree shaker. Turning pecans into a commercial crop involved the invention of machinery as well as improved, thin-shell varieties.
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The school children of San Saba were given baskets of pecans every year in the 1930s by the Risien family so that they could use them for fundraising.
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Seven San Saba society girls posing in the pecan necklaces that they wore when they served dinner to 200 guests on the first annual pecan day.
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The pecan industry, although now facing Chinese competition, remains significant in the United States and San Saba continues to be an important part of it. Five different companies in San Saba buy pecans.
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Lampasas County Courthouse, completed in 1884. Between 1880 and World War I, counties across Texas constructed huge and often very beautiful courthouses, as potent symbols of the area as banks in Chicago and New York or gothic churches and cathedrals in northern France and England.
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Between 1880 and 1896 25 people were lynched in San Saba, which had a population of around 800 people. San Saba Courthouse was completed in 1911 when the Santa Fe railroad increased the prosperity of the town. The motto is “From the People to the People.”
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R & G’s, the main grocery store in downtown San Saba. The armadillo refers to the high school football team, Bill’s Season All is a locally-produced pink seasoning salt.
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Wooden shelves in R & G’s grocery store
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Carne guisado, beans, rice and tortillas in the Tex-Mex restaurant on San Saba’s main street.
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Judging by the numbers, the most popular restaurant in town. And no cell phones to be seen.
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Checkout at Pepperbelly’s Tex Mex restaurant.
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Elvis ate here. Storm’s drive in, Lampasas, dating back to the early 1950s and still busy as can be for breakfast with pickups pulling in and out all the time.
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My short stack, not a burger at this hour, though I should have ordered one in honor of Elvis Presley who ate here while stationed at nearby Fort Hood.
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Thank you for coming through our area and for your very interesting write-up. My group paints the murals in Lampasas and I was pleased to see you found one of our 13 murals. We love our local history and it is always an eye-opener to see another’s point of view.
Dianna, In all my write ups of my adventures in various parts of the world, I’ve never had someone local respond before. So thrilled that you read it. Next time I visit I will find the other murals because this one was such a pointer to the evolving economy of the region. And I honestly would love to know where our points of view differ, an English farm girl and your perspective. Thanks you so much for commenting.
This was great!!! Thank you for visiting our sweet town (Lampasas). We have a group of very talented women who paint the beautiful, story telling murals. if you didn’t get to see them all, come back!
We are very proud of our town and the wonderful people who call it home.
Thank you for taking the time to write, Sophie. With this reception, I shall certainly be back.
Great article, thank you for visiting our town. Hope you’ll come back. We have so much more to show you!
Nona Jane, I can’t wait to see the rest of the murals and the other things you have to show.
Well now I’m homesick! Thank you for the lovely tour. When I lived in Austin, I kept myself sane with the fantasy of running off to Lampasas. Something about the landscape in that part of the state just lifts my spirits like nowhere else.
I eventually did run off to a small town, but it’s in Maine. I love it here, but they do not have good Tex-mex, or pecan trees.