Culinary heritage: Malaysia Just Do It
While Mexico and the Mediterranean countries are going for UNESCO recognition, Malaysia is plunging right in setting up food trucks in London and New York City. Paul Rockover in the Daily Beast has an interesting description, linking Malaysia’s strategy to the one pioneered by Thailand.
In 2010, Malaysia kicked off Malaysian Kitchen for the World —a robust gastrodiplomacy campaign meant to create awareness about Malaysia as it creates awareness for Malaysian cuisine and recipes. The campaign has been carried out by the Malaysia External Trade Development Corporation (MATRADE) to promote Malaysian cuisine globally, with heavy emphasis on the U.S. and U.K.
The brilliance of Malaysia’s campaign is that it has also combined aspects of cultural diplomacy with its culinary outreach. In this regard, Malaysia has set up night markets in famous landmarks of cosmopolitan cities such as a Malaysian night market in the middle of London’s Trafalgar Square. More recently, this public diplomacy campaign touched both coasts of the United States as it set up a night market on Santa Monica’s bustling 3rst Street Promenade and in the hip Meatpacking District in New York City. Such cultural and culinary diplomacy is most effective, as it plays on all the senses, not just taste.
Hat tip for both of these to Robyn Eckhardt, of Eating Asia, a must read for anyone interested in the traditional culinary scene of Southeast Asia and China.
Thanks Rachel. There’s more to the story of Malaysia’s “gastrodiplomacy”, and it involves the way that Malaysian politics are shaping that (1) the govt pursues its culinary diplomacy push — eg. the fact that it’s being led by the trade ministry rather than the tourism ministry and (2) the way that “Malaysian” food is defined and presented to the outside world. A topic for another article, perhaps, but probably not by me unless I can be sure it’s in a publication that won’t be read by anyone in charge here. ;-)
Now why am I not surprised, Robyn?
… and this Malaysian “gastrodiplomacy campaign” somewhat resonates with the way Escoffier perceived his role as a French ambassador who significantly contributes through his culinary work to French prestige, both gastronomically and culturally. Unfortunately, since then the French seem to have lost track (see French meal as UNESCO’s intangible heritage)… but this certainly makes the Malaysian strategy even more refreshing and intriguing.
–.David
Quite agree about Escoffier and I would extend it to many of the French chefs of the nineteenth century.
On the Malaysian strategy, friends who know Malaysia have some worries about what is being selected as Malaysian cuisine. And I certainly have huge misgivings about this project in Mexico.
Ah… this is the result of a tourism INDUSTRY for which culture is CAPITAL. What is it that your friends worry about? the shallow stereotyping? the tamed dishes? no wonder. I remember reading once the conclusions of a conference paper about tourism and Malaysian gastronomy and… guess what… presenters (I think they were Malaysian) recommended operators to actually ADAPT local food to Westerners’ taste.
And why am I not surprised? The adapting of local dishes to cosmopolitan tastes goes on all the time.
Some of my worries about the Mexican case are and http://www.rachellaudan.com/2010/06/migrants-nationalism-and-culinary-heritage.html