Back to Mole: The Criollo Issue
There’s something else that should be thrown into the pot when talking about mole. It’s not just a question of Spanish versus indigenous. Certainly by the eighteenth century, the criollos played a role in its development.
In New Spain, a criollo was someone of Spanish blood who had been born in Mexico. They came to feel quite distinct from the Spanish who arrived in Mexico from Spain itself.
This feeling of difference was heightened when European scientists began denigrating the flora and fauna of the New World. One of France’s most famous scientists, Buffon, argued that the species of the New World were inferior to those of the Old World.
This, and other factors, made many criollos rise to the defense of their birthplace. They argued that the flora and fauna was not degenerate but rich, varied, and just as good as that of the Old World.
Food became involved in this debate. And I suspect one reason why mole became a Mexican icon was that it was associated with the criollos.
There’s a lot more to say about this, but this will do for a start.
