Cuisines for expatriates
While we’re talking about different ways of classifying cuisines, it’s always worth remembering that expatriates will go to great lengths to get some facsimile of the cuisine of home. I bet this goes way back. I imagine Roman soldiers up on Hadrian’s Wall brewing up ersatz garum. The American Japanese soldiers who fought up the Italian peninsula in World War II were desperate, really desperate for rice and tried to bread up pasta to make a substitute.
Here’s Maria Verivaki of Organically Cooked, an insightful blog on Cretan food, on British foods in Crete.
it just so happens that the LIDL supermarket chain has made available some new products in their Greek stores, all under the title (I have translated it word-for-word for you): “Traditional cuisine from Great Britain”. When my husband saw the advertising leaflet (delivered to our home), he laughed and said: ‘do they have a cuisine in the first place?’ (people’s attitudes also play a role in defining a cuisine)
and just for you, i am listing the products found in the flyer (they will be available from 26 october, so they havent been placed on the shelves yet):
frozen roast beef (roast chicken) dinner with onion sauce and peas and carrots (all included)
frozen fish and chips (advertised as ‘classic english meal’)
frozen potato waffles
frozen roast potatos
chips (in salt and vinegar or plain flavour)
jarred mint sauce (or mustard sauce)
tinned baked beans
jarred piccalilli
bottled malt vinegar (i actually miss having this – we used to use it in NZ in the 70s and 80s when wine vinegar was considered a luxury good)
cheddar cheese
bottled blackcurrant juice
jarred english marmalades (including orange and lemon)
caramel shortcakes and butter biscuits(they are all packaged under the same label – heatherwood if that means anything for you – and the people who are most likely going to buy them here in Crete are our british resident tourists, meaning they have bought retirement homes but survive off their english pensions)
Frozen roast potatoes I can’t even imagine.
I have long loved looking at these foreign sections. For US expatriates, the two invariable items are Spam and cranberry sauce. Plus a whole lot of Reese “luxury” canned goods.
Then there are exotic cuisines for local residents. The Mexican section in British supermarkets is all canned American goods, totally unknown in Mexico. Mexican sections in the US are not notably better.
All these displaced foods are grist to my historian’s mill but like all data they require careful interpretation.
It would be interesting to see if there was any historical influence of the British on Greek cuisine. Given how important the British were for Greek independence and the amount of British in Greece (tourists, Grand Tour, Naval bases, trade), there might just be. I have seen one recipe for a curried rice dish from Ithaca, which is said to be due to the British.
British influence on Greek cusine? Not really, except the rosbif (roast beef but not rare or pink), the spread of salt cod (British traded with the Peloponnese, bartering shiploads of salted cod for currants) and the influence on the cuisine of Ionian islands. Those islands were under Venetian, Russian, French, and (in 1815 and for 50 years hence) British control. British managed to leave cricket and a few dishes behind (fruit and bread puddings, sweet potatoes). Oh, and a refreshment: the gingibear (ginger beer).
As for Lidl, for a week or a month they are offering what they call British specialities at their European stores.
What about some variation on “Beef Steak”? This seems to turn up in most countries influenced by the British, as does “Pudding” (from Minorca to Malta), curry dishes and decent wine. It would seem odd that the British have left so little foot print on world cuisines given their political and economic influence during the 17th, 18th and 19th century and the fact that unlike many nations during this period, food, cooking and publishing cookbooks was a British preoccupation.I wonder how much world cuisines have been influenced by British trading and introduction of new technologies?
I like the idea of salt cod being traded for currants though, in England salt fish was cooked in pies with “Raisins of Corinth” (currants).
exactly so, as History of Greek food points out. the british could not possibly have influenced greek cuisine, it is more likely the other way round.
take baked beans: http://www.flickr.com/photos/7209077@N06/3649927355/
no greek would ever serve these. greek baked beans look like this: http://organicallycooked.blogspot.com/2008/01/gigandes-baked-lima-beans.html
the recipe you saw for curry in ithaca is due to the reasons History of Greek Food points out: it’s something the british did (eat curry) while they were in the ionian islands, it was not copied, nor has it become widespread, nor is it even known in other parts of greece. they are remnants, not influences!
ex-patriate cusine still fascinates me, as it always makes me think of my mother and what lengths she went to in order to cook cretan food in new zealand: she made her own yoghurt and her own fresh curd cheese, and cooked only greek/cretan recipes. and she did a lot of this: http://organicallycooked.blogspot.com/2009/10/on-foraging.html
well, what about beef steak and puddings? they may be eaten from minorca to malta, but greece is the starting point for the east – and that’s where most of the influnce in greek cuisine came from
neither are eaten much in greece
in greece pork steak is eaten more often, marinated in greek aromas (herbs and wine). pudding is hardly ever eaten – dessert has never really been part of a cretan menu: the sweet offered to diners after a greek meal is on the house. a dessert menu is clearly a globalised addition rather than a british thing (unless of course one believes that britain is the root cause of gloablisation)
here is the part in adam’s comment that sums up the situation:
“it seems odd that the British have left so little foot print on world cuisines given their political and economic influence during the 17th, 18th and 19th century and the fact that unlike many nations during this period, food, cooking and publishing cookbooks was a British preoccupation.I wonder how much world cuisines have been influenced by British trading and introduction of new technologies”
what was happening in greece in the 16th century? the ottomans had just settled them selves into greece, (where they would stay for the next four hundred years), just after throwing out the venetians (who had stayed in greece for approx. the previous 400)!
No quite sure I understand the comment that the British could not have influenced Greek cuisine. The History of Greek Food has got the same source of information on this as me, “The Glorious Foods of Greece” by Diane Kochilas. It is a great cookbook, quite possibly the best in the English language on Greek food, but hardly an exhaustive source for food history.
However, the book does provide one answer to a suggestion I made above, in Corfu they have a dish from England, “poutinga”, which is “pudding”. It is the bread and butter variety. In Malta a similar item is callled “Pudina”, in Minorca “Puding”. Other versions of this dish are found on at least one other Greek island and it does seem to be spreading in popularity. There is even a version of it on Organically Cooked. In Croatia plum pudding is “Puding od šljiva”.
again, adam, you are using the ionian islands to base your judgment on british influence in greek food. can you find another greek place where british culinary influence can be found (i can only think of cyprus for the same reasons as the ionian islands, and they are a different country, but i am unfamiliar with their cuisine)
which is the version of pudding on organically cooked? (i’ve been writing that blog for the last 2+ years, and i have no recollection of making something called poytinga, or something that resembles pudding or serving it to my family – unless it is something i specifically call a new zealand or other non-Greek food)
if my plum crumble is taken as the pudding, that is clearly a foreign recipe. i only made it because i knew about crumble recipes from my upbringing in NZ (my mother never made a crumble in her life). if you read the two links i have for plum crumble, you will realise that they refer to something i (the greek who spent the first 25 years of her life in nz) like. the actual recipe comes from an english supermarket, hardly the purveyor of british-influenced greek cuisine. to quote myself: “I decided to try making plum crumble, an English pudding, with our excess crop. The original internet recipe comes from Waitrose.” and “Who am I making this for? I ask myself. Me, of course, because I love crumble desserts, in the same way that I like rain in the summer, large bookstores, well-stocked libraries, Chinese stir-fries, bitter chocolate, moist carrot cake, and so many other things that seem so foreign to the people closest to me.” in other words, many things that are simply not ‘greek’ as we know them.
it is not a greek recipe – if it crops up in greek recipe books, it is probably for creative cooking reasons rather than as a true british influence.
the only thing i can think of that resembles pudding in greek food is a custard that can be prepared from a sachet of powdered ingredients. it is often made up for children as a quick food solution, it is also used to fill spongey cakes (british influence, or simply seen as european rich-tasting cakes?), and it may also be given to elderly people who can’t chew their food any longer.
is this the kind of influence adam means about british food influenceing greek food? it’s hardly influencing it – it’s more likely that it is part of the globalised culinary trends found everywhere, used mainly in the context of convenience rather than a change in direction of the traditional food. and who doesnt want mod cons in their kitchen? that doesnt mean that greeks were influenced by the british to have them. these came much much later for the average greek than they did for western europe, when greece started pulling herself together as a country
don’t forget what was happening in greece when britain was influencing the rest of the world (pre-1900) – the state of greece was less than half the size of what it is known as today: http://organicallycooked.blogspot.com/2009/01/political-dingle-dangles.html
check out what is in the food cupboards in a cretan household (but not the bookshelves – they are my books from new zealand, and they are all 20 years old):
http://organicallycooked.blogspot.com/2009/06/food-for-thought.html
i may not be able to see it myself, but someone could point out the british influence if they can see it
this is not meant to be a rant. i am simply being the devil’s advocate…
The climate, geography, flora and fauna, religious rituals and traditions, ancient/ Byzantine background, the discovery of America etc. have heavily influenced Greek food and social behavior. The interaction with a number of cultures through Greek conquests or the long occupation of Creece by other countries (Venetian rule: 1204 – 1669 Crete, 1687-1715 Peloponnese, 1207-1797 Ionian islands, 1207-1566 Cyclades islands, etc. Francs and Katalan rule: 1204 – 1394 Athens. Ottoman rule: almost 400 years.), the contacts with Asia Minor and the settlement of the Greek refugees from there in Greece (1922), the Greek colonies in Egypt, Russia, Moldavia and Vlachia, the vibrant trade from ancient times until the fall of Byzantium and from 16th century until today (although it was really in the 18th century that its activities were expanded from the Black Sea, the Adriatic and Italy to Marseilles, Antwerp and Moscow), the migration to America etc., the huge impact of French cuisine on the cuisine of upper class, they all have played very important role in the complexity of Greek food culture.
Village cuisine and the food of the poor were less affected by direct cultural influences, however in the cities the interaction was remarkable.
Why then a fifty English years occupation of Ionian islands should have big impact on Greek food? The people of Ionian islands hated the despotic character of British High Commissioners who relied upon the corrupt local aristocracy to implement taxes and repress the public reactions.
Of course, there were indirect influences. Unlike the French, the British accepted both the participation of foreign merchants and ships in their marine business and foreign investment in English ships in order to promote their export trade and secure with foodstuff and raw materials.
With the Ionian islands among its colonies Britain offered the Greek merchants the privileges of settlement and marketing of cereals in the areas around Danube. Moreover, new forms of organisation (the joint-stock company), and commercial practices (advertising) introduced during the British period. The Greeks became the main carriers in the Eastern Mediterranean and Black Sea during 19th century. Raisins, other dried and fresh fruits, sugar, animal grease, wheat, maize, barley, wine, olive oil, spices; sugar, licorice, opium, madder (for medical purposes); silk, wool, cannabis, lace, tobacco, jewels, perfumes, sponges; coal etc. trafficked around, to and from the Ionian Islands.
Grain, agricultural goods, clothing and coal were of major importance for the islands. Salt cod and meat- the other scarce commodity in the islands- were purchased from Britain.
But the truth is that the character of the upper class cuisine remained Greco- Venetian while the food of villages was very simple and self- sufficient.
As for the rest of the Greece, don’t forget that the relationship between Britain and Greece has not only been close but very troubled too, especially from 1830 (declaration of Indepedence) until 1947, when the USA assumed the role of Greece’s patron.
For a long period there was a rather generated anti – British feeling created by Britain’s involvement in Greek internal affairs, which ran higher because of the role of Britain in the civil war and Cyprus.
English food enoyed the same reputation as the British foreign policy. The Greeks made jokes about the dullness of British cuisine; even today, old Greeks say for those who have not gastro gusto: ‘they eat like Englishmen’, reflecting not only their idea of Greek food as a source of pride but also describing Britain’s place in their psycological world. (Actually, from 1960 till 1990, it has been a love/hate relationship both with England and America and their cultures. Greeks are fascinated with English and American music, movies, etc. but they hate the effects of English and American foreign policy.)
The real influence came through the robust expansion of tourism industry, which has resulted in changes in local economic activity and food culture. Local agricultural production could not provide the quantity of demanded food and many foods began to be imported. The local population also started to demand imported products (British foodstuffs are included here: whisky, chips etc.) which replaced the local ones. Beer and whisky replaced wine and local spirits and just the last couple of years there is a tend toward gourmet local products. In large cities, english tea, cookies and sauces have been tied to Christmas, as an impact of tourism combined with the impact of a wide food market.
As it happen all I have said that it would be interesting if there was any British influence on Greek cusine. What you have said is “not possibly have influenced greek cuisine”, without any objective reasons why this is so. As it happens, with a minimum of effort and limited to English language texts it is possible to fine examples. Fine ‘poutinga’ is localised, fits into the model of regional and local cuisine that people keep on banging on about.
The history of Greek (and any other) cuisine is not going to get very far if people can’t be objective. Which is a great shame and a great disservice.
The climate, geography, flora and fauna, religious rituals and traditions, ancient/ Byzantine background, the discovery of America etc. have heavily influenced Greek food and social behavior. The interaction with a number of cultures through Greek conquests or the long occupation of Creece by other countries (Venetian rule: 1204 – 1669 Crete, 1687-1715 Peloponnese, 1207-1797 Ionian islands, 1207-1566 Cyclades islands, etc. Francs and Katalan rule: 1204 – 1394 Athens. Ottoman rule: almost 400 years.), the contacts with Asia Minor and the settlement of the Greek refugees from there in Greece (1922), the Greek colonies in Egypt, Russia, Moldavia and Vlachia, the vibrant trade from ancient times until the fall of Byzantium and from 16th century until today (although it was really in the 18th century that its activities were expanded from the Black Sea, the Adriatic and Italy to Marseilles, Antwerp and Moscow), the migration to America etc., the huge impact of French cuisine on the cuisine of upper class, they all have played very important role in the complexity of Greek food culture.
Village cuisine and the food of the poor were less affected by direct cultural influences, however in the cities the interaction was remarkable.
Why then a fifty English years occupation of Ionian islands should have big impact on Greek food? The people of Ionian islands hated the despotic character of British High Commissioners who relied upon the corrupt local aristocracy to implement taxes and repress the public reactions.
Of course, there were indirect influences. Unlike the French, the British accepted both the participation of foreign merchants and ships in their marine business and foreign investment in English ships in order to promote their export trade and secure with foodstuff and raw materials.
With the Ionian islands among its colonies Britain offered the Greek merchants the privileges of settlement and marketing of cereals in the areas around Danube. Moreover, new forms of organisation (the joint-stock company), and commercial practices (advertising) introduced during the British period. The Greeks became the main carriers in the Eastern Mediterranean and Black Sea during 19th century. Raisins, other dried and fresh fruits, sugar, animal grease, wheat, maize, barley, wine, olive oil, spices; sugar, licorice, opium, madder (for medical purposes); silk, wool, cannabis, lace, tobacco, jewels, perfumes, sponges; coal etc. trafficked around, to and from the Ionian Islands.
Grain, agricultural goods, clothing and coal were of major importance for the islands. Salt cod and meat- the other scarce commodity in the islands- were purchased from Britain.
But the truth is that the character of the upper class cuisine remained Greco- Venetian while the food of villages was very simple and self- sufficient.
As for the rest of the Greece, don’t forget that the relationship between Britain and Greece has not only been close but very troubled too, especially from 1830 (declaration of Indepedence) until 1947, when the USA assumed the role of Greece’s patron.
For a long period there was a rather generated anti – British feeling created by Britain’s involvement in Greek internal affairs, which ran higher because of the role of Britain in the civil war and Cyprus.
English food enoyed the same reputation as the British foreign policy. The Greeks made jokes about the dullness of British cuisine; even today, old Greeks say for those who have not gastro gusto: ‘they eat like Englishmen’, reflecting not only their idea of Greek food as a source of pride but also describing Britain’s place in their psycological world. (Actually, from 1960 till 1990, it has been a love/hate relationship both with England and America and their cultures. Greeks are fascinated with English and American music, movies, etc. but they hate the effects of English and American foreign policy.)
The real influence came through the robust expansion of tourism industry, which has resulted in changes in local economic activity and food culture. Local agricultural production could not provide the quantity of demanded food and many foods began to be imported. The local population also started to demand imported products (British foodstuffs are included here: whisky, chips etc.) which replaced the local ones. Beer and whisky replaced wine and local spirits and just the last couple of years there is a tend toward gourmet local products. In large cities, english tea, cookies and sauces have been tied to Christmas, as an impact of tourism combined with the impact of a wide food market.
Oops! Sorry for the double -posting!
Adam, what I am saying is that Greeks have long been exposed to many food -cultural influences and British influence had not big direct impact, perhaps with few exceptions among the elites in the upper class of Ionian society during the first half of 19th century. On the contrary, from 1980 util today there is remarkable Anglo -American influence on the Greek food culture (which can be also viewed as part of a global process.)
I, of course, can not prove it here the way you probably want (If I had to do it I should write a book instead of comments). Perhaps I’ ll start posting about food – influences!?
BTW, Kochilas’s book is not among the sources of my informations. ;)
As Rachel has said in her recent post it isn’t a requirement to like or respect a particular thing for it to become incorporated into your culture in some way. The French and English were mutually influenced during the last 400 years of mutual dislike and it would be fair to say that the Ottomans had some influence on Greek food ways.
I also think that it is important when considering food history, to keep in mind that trivial things can be informative. It isn’t all big themes. Right at the begining of this thread I made a guess that “Beefsteak” or “Pudding” might turn up in Greece. In a limited way the latter does as “poutinga”. So why is this of interest?
A typical exchange of the mid-19th century concerning British food is something like this (actually a discussion on food in Sicily):
“They talk of nothing now but rosbiff, and bifstec, and pudino, just as your Neopolitan coxcombs have learnt to eat fricasees and omelttes from our masters”.
“Pudding” is now one of the widespread food items on the planet. By the end of the 19th century there was “pouding” (France), “puddingo/pudino/budino” (Italy), “pudim” (Portugal), “pudin” (Spain) et al. Many of these tend to be the same type of pudding, essentially what in England is called a “Bread Pudding”. What is interesting is that out of all the hundreds of British puddings and half a dozen pudding families, why has this particular one spread so readily? What is the thing about this food item that has spread it around the world? It tastes nice, but so do many things, it uses up stale bread, but so does a lot of recipes, which often as not do not require expensive dried fruit, spices and sugar. It isn’t part of a particular festival or celebration and it isn’t associated with a particular class of people. Why is this food item so dynamic?
So from a relatively trivial item we have some big questions to answer about cultural exchage and spread of food families.
For anyone to maintain that there has been little or no direct British influence on Greek gastronomy is a sign of ignorance regarding food history in Greece. Here is one example of a direct influence on Greek food culture via British agency: http://greekgourmand.blogspot.com/2008/05/kumquat-sweet-for-your-thoughts.html The introduction of the Kumquat to Greece is not the only such example, indeed, it is my understanding that it was the British who assisted Count Capodistrias to introduce the potato to Greece in the 19th century: http://greekgourmand.blogspot.com/2008/04/patatopita-potato-pie.html There are other examples as well.